I’ve hiked through some stunning scenery in a lot of National Parks, but hiking the Narrows in Zion National Park was one of the coolest “trails” I’ve been on.
Criss crossing through the stream of crystal clear water while looking up at steep canyon was unlike any hike I had been on. I was also 6 months pregnant and craving an adventure. Throughout my pregnancy, I had trouble with hip/back pain that caused me to cut back my normal activities to only walking. Walking is great for you, but I was getting bored with the same trails in my area and needed a change of pace.
Pregnancy, my second time around, has been tough. While I ran and hiked all the way through my first pregnancy, this one has made me slow way down. Mentally, that has taken a toll on me. I’m used to hiking to alpine lakes, trail running on singletrack, and ripping mountain bike trails. Stripping away all my adventure activities has been a hard pill to swallow. Setting out on a trip to a new destination revived my spirit. Yes, I had to still comply within the rules of what my body was capable of. But I also needed to break out from my routine and focus on what I can do. I’m just pregnant, not broken.
A random mama’s trip with one of my closest friends led us to southwest Utah for a long weekend to explore the National Parks. Starting in Zion, we decided against hiking Angel’s Landing because my bulging belly wouldn’t “squeeze” past anyone on the narrow trail that plunged to the earth below. Hiking the Narrows is the other highlight of Zion National Park, and while it was a push for me, it was just what my soul needed.
What to Expect Hiking the Narrows
Wading through beautifully clear turquoise water with towering red and black stained cliffs engulfing you, hiking through the Narrows in Zion National Park is one of the most incredible hikes you will experience.
The first mile of the trail is along the Riverside Walk, an easy paved path. Once you get enter the Virgin River, expect to get your feet wet – and stay wet – for the remainder of your hike. There is no tip toeing around it. Walking upstream, there’s not an official trail. Water levels range from ankle to knee deep in the low season to waist and chest deep in the high season. You will make your own way as you constantly cross left and right across the river and onto land where there’s an opportunity while avoiding the deepest holes in the river.
Expect to be in the water for most of the hike regardless of the time of year.
The farthest day hikers can go from the bottom-up without a permit is Big Springs, which is 5 miles in. You can turn around at any time, but the best part of the hike is once you reach Wall Street, which begins at around 3 miles from the shuttle stop.
Wall Street is spectacular because it’s where the canyon walls are most narrow, at only 22 feet wide. They seem to engulf you as you look up 1,500 feet to find a glimpse of sky above. Once you reach Wall Street, the scenery doesn’t change much as you wind deeper into the canyon. Still, if you’re going to hike that far in, you might as well go a little further to experience the best part of the hike.
Access to Hiking the Narrows
There are two ways to hike the Narrows, but hiking from the bottom-up is the most popular and accessible option. To access the Narrows, jump on the free park shuttle to the last shuttle stop, Temple of the Sinawava.
The other option is a long 16 mile hike from the top of the canyon down. This requires a Wilderness permit and can be hiked either in one day or as an overnight trip. This is a long and strenuous day trip, please check the water and weather conditions before you begin your journey.
Best time of year to hike the Narrows
The best time to hike the Narrows in Zion National Park is the summer or fall. High water levels over 150 cfs in the spring close the canyon. If you head out too early in the year, you could find yourself swimming in waist to chest deep water. By summer, water levels have dropped and the water temperatures have risen, which is a great time to tackle this trail. Wait even later, until fall, for shallower water depths, but cooler air temps.
We hiked in mid-October and found it to be the perfect time to visit. While it was cooler in the canyon, the water levels were low enough to be only shin to knee deep. This made it much easier to wade through the water and cover some distance. Outside temps were around 80, but we were hiking in the shade of the canyon for 98% of the hike, so we were layered up. With the right gear, it wasn’t too cold when we were there in October to hike.
It is possible to hike the Narrows in the winter when water levels are low, but this would require renting cold weather gear, such as waders, and layering thermal bottoms underneath. If you head to the Narrows in the late fall/winter months, be prepared for cold temps and mindful of hypothermia.
What gear do you need to hike the Narrows?
It is extremely important to plan appropriately and have the right gear, extra layers, and food/water. It is cold in the canyon with little sunlight, so even on a warm day, it can be quite cold. Having the right equipment can make or break your day, or even save your life.
Consider renting gear through one of the local outfitters if you don’t have the list of essentials below:
Hiking Poles
Regardless of when you hike, you will need one trekking or walking pole. With the water rushing beneath your feet, having a sturdy stick will help maintain your balance through the water crossings. The rocks below can be slippery and in places the water rushes by quickly. A hiking stick helps keep you upright to lessen your chances of falling in.
Shoes / Boots
The best footwear to hike the Narrows are fast drying hiking boots or running shoes. Sturdy and supportive water shoes are essential because your shoes will get wet immediately. The river is filled with slick rocks, so it’s important to have the right footwear with good grip on the bottom. Inappropriate footwear can lead to twisted ankles and crushed toes.
It is not recommended to hike with open-toed shoes.
That said, I hiked in Chacos paired with neoprene booties on a warm fall day. Sandals are not usually recommended, but personally, I am confident with my balance. Chacos have a solid sole, which are strapped down tight around my foot for a secure fit. I paired my Chacos with a neoprene bootie to help prevent stubbing my toes.
If you do not feel comfortable balancing on slippery rocks in the river, wear a shoe or boot that provides adequate support. In cold weather, a boot is recommended. Renting the appropriate footwear is one of the most important things you can do!
Neoprene Booties
No matter what footwear you choose, I highly recommend renting neoprene booties. Hiking socks, even with your own boots, will not keep you warm. Neoprene booties, made of a wetsuit-like materials, will keep your feet warm even after hours of being immersed in cold water.
Shorts / Waterproof Pants
Check the water levels in the river and the temperature to determine what type of bottoms to put on. Whether shorts or pants, they should be quick dry material.
Water levels ranged from ankle to knee deep when we hiked, so I was comfortable in quick dry shorts while heavily layering on top. This included a tank top, a fleece, and a down jacket, topped with a beanie. With my core toasty warm and neoprene socks on my feet, my legs, even in shorts, were fine.
When the water level is higher than knee deep, you might want to consider wearing or renting waders. In cold temps, you can layer a thermal bottom underneath the waders to keep you toasty.
Extra Layers
Toss in extra layers in your pack in a dry bag in case you get wet or cold. Additionally, plan to bring a beanie, gloves, a down or insulating layer, a rain jacket, and rain pants. I ended up wearing most of my layers, even on a warm 75 degree day.
It’s best to dress in layers that you can take on or off easily as the temperature changes. Avoid cotton clothing.
If you’re hiking in the winter, you will probably want a wetsuit or dry suit with warm thermal layers underneath.
Additional Items
A dry bag in your pack should include your extra layers and any valuables, such as a camera.
Your pack should also be filled with plenty of water and snacks.
A first aid kit to address minor injuries.
A flashlight / headlamp is small and lightweight addition that could be a huge lifesaver should you find yourself in the canyon later than expected.
If you do not have your own gear, Zion Outfitter has everything you need to hike the Narrows. Gear can be picked up the evening before to streamline your morning.
Safety
Before you head out, check in at the visitors center for current river levels, weather conditions, and flash flood warnings before you head out on your hike. This will help you understand what you’re getting into and be sure to have the right gear. If water levels are too high, the park closes access to this hike. If you have young kids, be mindful that water levels will be much higher for them.
CFS levels for the Virgin River:
0-30 cfs = ankle deep (for an average size adult)
30-60 cfs = ankle to knee deep.
60-90 cfs = knee to thigh deep. Chest deep on children under 4 feet tall.
90-120 cfs = thigh to waist deep. This depth is not safe for children, as it can be head deep in places with a swift current.
Over 150 cfs = Closed by the National Park Service
Flash floods can occur even when they’re not expected. If there is precipitation in the forecast, there is a chance of flash flooding. Know the signs to look for, including: build up of clouds / sounds of thunder, changes in water clarity, floating debris, or a roar from up canyon. Always be conscious of your surroundings and the weather around you.
Due to the proximity of the trail in a canyon at the end of the park with no cell service, it will take awhile to get help if you need it. You are responsible for being adequately prepared and demonstrate good judgement on the trail, which includes being mindful of weather conditions and your own abilities.
Ready to head out hike the Narrows in Zion National Park? Enjoy your adventure!